• Swift Knives UK
    Hi guys.

    Im running out of epoxy and need your advice on whats good. Ive been using JB Weld as its indestructable and never let me down. Ive used a few different brands in the past but had varying degrees of success.

    Any recomendations for a 24hr curing, clear, 100% reliable, available on amazon etc, epoxy.

    Cheers in advance.
  • Matt Brookes
    hey mate,

    I use West systems g flex which dries to a workable cure in 7-10 hours. Or their 105 system, for which you can get fast or slow hardeners. Never had any issues with it, dries clear etc.
  • Chop Knives
    West systems 105/205 for me.
  • David Singer
    I use West systems G Flex. If it can hold small boats together, then the moisture and heat of a kitchen should be a walk it the park for it. Also having 45mins before it starts curing is great to have in the back of my mind if something isn't fitting up at the last minute.
  • GlenWilson
    Anyone use this?
    epoxy (19K)
  • JR Knifemaker
    @GlenWilson I’ve used it before, but would not recommend a 5 minute epoxy. It’s good stuff for other tasks, but not attaching scales in my opinion.
  • Jeff Kushen
    I use West Systems, but Walter Sorells and others says good things about Combat Abrasives Rogue Epoxy. I'm adding a couple bottles to my order this week to give it a shot.
  • Joe Nipper
    Had excellent results with the Combat Rogue epoxy
  • Jeff Kushen
    Yeah, My results with the Rogue Epoxy are great! Just make sure you have EVERYTHING LAID OUT PERFECTLY first.. you only have about 10 minutes working time....less if its very warm in your shop.
  • Hathenbruck
    I haven't had single good result with the Rogue epoxy. It's the only epoxy I've used that a scale popped off. It could've been my fault, but I'll stick with West Systems ;)
  • Jeff Kushen
    Hmm, I have beat the snot out of the first couple I used Rogue on. Rubber mallet on the workbench beating.

    As for Rogue, I thought "New Product, test it out", right? I am very meticulous at making sure my scales are flattened, then dimpled or scratched up on the tang side, holes in my tang, with 50 grit scratched finish, and cleaned with acetone before glue-up.

    I tested both wood and mycarta scales with no issues. However, i also use pins/tubes, not just glue. They are through-pinned, not peened or fluted.

    I like West Systems G-Flex as well. Was my go to, and I still use it. What was your process?
  • Neil Yeager
    I like using metal spacers (copper/nickel silver) along with G10 for scale liners. For the bond between these, I really like JB weld. I think the fact that it will stand up to higher heat seems to really be a benefit and prevent delamination. One gets a lot of heat build up when shaping anything with the nickel silver in it particularly. For scale to blade, I have used Blade Bond very successfully. They also have a product called Blade Bond HT which is thinner and easier to pour into hidden tang areas.
  • Jeff Kushen
    They also have Blade Bond Extreme, with a 205 degree F heat resistance. Per the website "...This high temp. rating gives the maker a very wide margin for error, and greatly reduces the risk of overheating during the handle shaping process. " I think I have to pick up some of the Blade Bond products now to try them out.
  • Neil Yeager
    But the price of the extreme as I recall is like twice the cost of the Standard Blade Bond. That is why I went with the JB. But you are right, according to the spec. the extreme should work out fine.
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