• Ryan Bales
    Finished this up a few weeks ago.

    Steel 52100
    Handle - Swiss pear and African Blackwood with copper spacers.
    OAL - 14.25”
    Blade length - 8.25”
    Width at heel - 1.75”
    Thickness behind edge 0.07”

  • Jeff Kushen
    Ok Ryan, that looks amazing! And I have to ask, 'How do you do the copper spacers?' Every time i try to do that, my epoxy breaks loose during shaping. I try not to get the material too hot, but the copper is a very efficient conductor! No matter how slow i go, or how many times i dunk the piece, it will always shear where the copper is. Help? hints tricks?
  • Ryan Bales
    @Jeff Kushen Thank you so much!

    So i had a bit of a nightmare there, i had to re-sand and glue the assembly more than once! After a few frustrating times of it crumbling apart I did the following - Note i used the dowel Wa method:

    • Drilled two 1/16" holes about 1/8" or less from the outside of the dowel hole through the spacers and blackwood into the bottom section.
    • Then flipped it and did the same on the pear wood behind bolster.
    • I then filled the holes and surfaces with CA glue and clamped it together.
    • The dowel hole was 1/2" and the dowel was .4" so i had banked on having plenty of gap for epoxy. It turned out very rigid and the dowel extends from just inside the bolster to about 1" from the butt of the handle.

    I came to terms with it breaking apart and just made sure i shaped the handle with the dowel inside so if it popped apart i didn't mess it up. Once it was close i switched to files and sandpaper/granite plate to get it really dialed in. The next time i do it i'm going to use alignment pins and epoxy. To hopefully not have that happen. I couldn't figure out how to keep it cool without using water - which wouldn't be a big deal if it was synthetic or stabilized wood but it was not.
  • Jeff Kushen
    Ahh thats what I was thinking, but hadnt tried it, yet! next chefs knife THAT'S the plan! THANKS!
  • Ryan Bales
    Of course! It was a trying process and i think if using G10 i would just dunk it all time in water to keep it cool.
  • Neil Yeager
    I had the same issues with delamination of the metal spacers (I use nickel silver, copper and brass). Switched to JB Weld Epoxy for these sections of the glue up and have not had any issues after word. I also sometimes use small alignment pins as well.
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