• Neil Yeager
    8
    Has anyone tried the dry ice cryo treatment on carbon steel blades? I work with primarily O1. I have read discussions both ways. I see one article that indicates that it is in the best interest of the maker to cryo O1. Just curious if anyone has any experience.
  • JH Forgeworks
    1
    I did it with my last 01 blade after seeing multiple suggestions to do so. I believe Jeremy from SimpleLIttleLife mentioned he does it with his as well. I didn't test the blade enough to know if it really made enough of a difference but it would make sense for tool steels like 01 to benefit. Liquid nitrogen would probably be better but, if that's not an option, I can't see how dry ice slurry would "hurt" anything.
  • Jeff Kushen
    30
    I saw some metallurgical charts and discussion on iForgeIron and BladeForums about it. Typically mono steels like W-series and10x don't really benefit from Cryo (Liquid Nitrogen) OR Sub-zero (dry-ice + Acetone or Kerosene). 52100, A2, O1 and D2 will benefit from Cryo SLIGHTLY, but the general consensus was that the benefit wasn't worth the effort or exspense. I believe it was listed as .5 to 1.5 RHC. Sub-zero did nothing measurable for O1, D2 or A2. If your HT recipe is good, you will most likely get the same measurable result without it on Mono-steels.
  • Jeff Kushen
    30
    On another note, DANGER, DANGER WILL ROBINSON!! BE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT A HOT BLADE INTO DRY ICE AND ACETONE OR KEROSENE!!!! Your blade should be 'normal room temperature!! No higher than say 100 degrees for good measure!

    Again! Use Sub-Zero or Cryo as a treatment, NOT a quenchant!

    Unless you want to blow up yourself, in which case, quench away! But your life insurance will probably NOT pay your family for your stupidity...
  • Jeff Kushen
    30
    FYI, Some common Dry Ice recipes:

    Dry ice + Alcohol = ~ -55F ~ - 48C
    Dry Ice + Acetone = ~95F ~ - 70C
    Dry ice + Kerosene or Ethylene Glycol (Automotive Anti-freeze!) = ~ 110F ~ - 78C <===Sweet spot for most steels that benefit from Sub-Zero treatment
    Cryo (LN2) = -320F or −195 C
  • JH Forgeworks
    1


    Good looking out on the different temperature ranges. I used Denatured Alcohol as it was suggested and easy to get in higher volumes. I didn't know that kerosene was twice as cold. Will have to make the switch if I find myself using dry ice again!!
  • Neil Yeager
    8
    Thanks, lot of interesting info here. I guess I have to be careful with the temps. Heck the ambient temp here can be close to 100F! For me Anti-Freeze would probably be the easiest stuff to find. I have also read both ways, no benefits and not worth the cost/time, and on the other hand that it is indeed beneficial!!??. I am a tinkerer at heart, so I will give it a shot. My understanding of the process is, run the oven temper cycle- cool to room temp, in the ice bath (overnight ?), take out - slow warm up and then a second temper cycle. Correct?
  • Jeff Kushen
    30
    Most makers do the deep-freeze after coming to room temp direct from hardening.

    The time depends on the material. For 12C27/m the steel only needs to 'reach' the -110F. No soak time is needed. For 440C or 154CM it should 'soak' for several hours.
  • Neil Yeager
    8
    OK then, Hardening-deep freeze- back to room temp and then oven tempering. Going to take a shot at it.
  • Tom
    7
    Good luck man. Post the results
bold
italic
underline
strike
code
quote
ulist
image
url
mention
reveal
youtube
tweet
Add a Comment

Welcome to the Knife Talk forum!

Sign up to the forum for free to start discussions and get your questions & queries answered and engage with the community.