• JH Forgeworks
    1
    I've done some hamon's on knives before but all have been with 1095. I wanted to give it a shot on some kitchen knives I'm making out of W2. I wanted lots of activity so went with, what I thought was, a pretty active layout. In the end, I got more of a puddle than the serrated lined I was hoping for.

    I'm using satanite mixed to a pudding consistency. The W2 is from NJ Steel Baron. It's 1/8 thick stock. Ground to about 1.75mm edge before heat treat. I didn't forge this one so didn't bother with normalizing cycles like I normally would. Heat treat was 1470, 20 minute hold, quenched in Parks 50. In hindsight, the clay was likely a little too thick and the "fingers" too wide and close together. The clay did pop off during the quench but probably about 3-4 seconds after being in the oil. I'm open to any suggestions. I've got two or three more I'm planning to make with this bar and want to put a hamon on all of them.

    The pictures are just a test etch at 120 grit. Grind is a 36 inch hollow. I'll post pictures when I get it finish ground and polished out.
    aivqxr0eujvxf9sj.jpeg
    o4nwfkjunelpn4ss.jpeg
    pn6g25qowfcnfp3n.png
    Attachment
    970128AA-F598-4B74-B1A1-D97361DCDCFF (232K)
  • Justin Schmidt
    0
    Little to close to the edge for me. Theres a YouTube video by ed Braun that shows how to apply clay. Super simple. I use a 1/16 steel rod to apply the fingers
    pv0d5i2yptblsl3l.jpg
  • Jeff Kushen
    30
    Walter Sorrells has a great vid on youtube about doing this...
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