• Justin Schmidt
    So how does everyone deal with warps when making a kitchen knife. I've recently been using 26c3 (newer steel similar to Hitachi white) I've used .150 and .078 and both warped. One was during grinding the bevels, a another during quench, and another in the middle of tempering !
    So. What does everyone due to deal with warps in thin blades?
  • Rix Raven

    Ive been practicing freehand kitchen knives since I started out... which is not long ago :)
    But heres what I learnedd so far. Warping when grinding is common. The "stronger" side will pull. It will even out perfectly if grinded properly... kind of a good tell off for you.
    About the warp during quench.. Its all about your grind and how even it is and also if you normalized and grain reduced properly. Then, when and if it warps during quench, you have about under a minute from pulling out of quench to straighten it while its still transforming. Works like a charm! Much easier than setups during tempering. Theeeeen.. tempering shouldnt be a problem. And if so, use leather gloves and straighten with hands while hot from tempering. Hope it helps you.
  • Justin Schmidt
    Thanks man I'll give these a shot!!!
  • JR Knifemaker
    *makes mental note of all above*
  • JH Forgeworks
    I have two, 1 inch thick, aluminum plates that I use for my stainless. These are placed in a woodworkers vice. (Jeremy from SimpleLittleLife has an excellent video on how he made his. I copied it.) For my carbon blades I will quench in Parks 50 then immediately place them in the plates and cinch it down and blow it with compressed air. Stainless, I just skip the parks.

    For super thin blades (anything under 3/32) I will heat treat before I do any grinding. Even on many of the 3/32 blades I'll just grind in the 45's and heat treat or do just a shallow bevel. I rarely get warps when doing this. And if I do, they're minor during the temper. A small bit of heat on the spine and some slight tweaking in the vice and they come right out.
  • Neil Yeager
    I have a couple of 2" dead flat angle iron sections. I clamp a stack of blanks to the angle and then go through the temper cycle. It seems to work really effectively for me.
  • Finn Leslie
    I’ve found normalizing cycles to help a bunch. Sometimes I get a few warps during normalizing so I pop it in a vise after it cools down a bit and let it cool the rest while the vise keeps it straight. It may still warp again during the quench but usually not nearly as bad as it would if I hadn’t straightened during the cycles and it’s a lot easier to correct. Just don’t do it while the blade is blazing hot especially when it’s thin because the cold plates on the vise could harden it slightly
  • Jeff Kushen
    For thin knives, under 1/8" thick, I always harden and temper BEFORE grinding anything after the initial profile. NO BEVELS at all before tempering. Then grind, dip, grind, dip... repeat until bevels and tapers are where you want them. Haven't warped one yet.
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